Working-class neighborhood on the Riachuelo river, famous for the Caminito pedestrian street with its brightly painted tin houses and the Boca Juniors stadium La Bombonera. Caminito gets crowded with cruise-ship day-trippers in the morning, so go early to see it in peace. The area south of the museum is a real barrio, and Google Maps helps you avoid the streets that are not safe to walk through after dark.
City of the dead built in 1822, with ornate mausoleums, marble statues, and tree-lined avenues that look more like a small town than a graveyard. The tomb of Eva Peron is the most visited spot, and the surrounding Recoleta neighborhood is one of the nicest for walking. Mobile data works well inside the cemetery, which is useful for reading the Spanish-only plaques on the historic tombs.
Oldest barrio of Buenos Aires, with cobblestone streets, antique shops, and the Sunday Feria de San Telmo that runs along Plaza Dorrego and Defensa street. Tango dancers perform in the plaza on Sundays, and the cafes stay open late. Mobile data is reliable along the main streets, and rideshare pickups are quick at the corner of Defensa and Chile.
Modern waterfront district built on the old port reddocks, now home to glass skyscrapers, high-end restaurants, and the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur at the southern end. The Puente de la Mujer (Woman's Bridge) by Calatrava is the most photographed spot, and the waterfront is a long, easy walk with 4G signal the whole way.
Largest neighborhood in Buenos Aires, divided into Palermo Soho (boutiques and bars), Palermo Hollywood (restaurants and film studios), and the Bosques de Palermo park complex. The Rosedal garden, the Japanese Garden, and the lakes are a popular half-day walk. Mobile data is strong across the bars and restaurants, which is useful for calling a Cabify during a rainstorm.
Opera house on the corner of Cerrito and Tucuman, opened in 1908 and considered one of the best concert halls in the world for its acoustics. The guided tour covers the main hall, the stage, and the underground rehearsal rooms. Daytime tours are in English and Spanish, and the tour office uses WhatsApp for last-minute bookings, which works fine on the local 4G.
Stadium of Boca Juniors, opened in 1940, with the iconic cantilevered stands that give it the nickname of chocolate box. The guided tour covers the stands, the changing rooms, and the museum of the club's history. Match days are electric but the area is not safe for tourists, so book the tour on a non-match day and use the Subte to get there and back.
350-hectare urban wetland reserve on the Rio de la Plata, a few minutes from Puerto Madero. The reserve is free to enter, with marked trails, lagoons, and a surprising amount of birdlife in the middle of the city. The trail is flat and easy, and the closest 4G signal is at the entrance; inside the reserve, signal drops in the bushy areas, so download an offline map before starting.
Argentina's main fine arts museum in Recoleta, holding more than 12,000 pieces from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. The collection is strongest in Argentine painters (Xul Solar, Quinquela Martin) and European impressionists. Entry is free, the museum WiFi is reliable, and the surrounding Recoleta streets have good 4G for a follow-up walk to the cemetery.
Network of rivers and islands in the Parana Delta, about 30 km north of central Buenos Aires, accessible by the Tren de la Costa or the Mitre line. Most visitors take a launch from the Tigre station to the main markets and then continue on smaller boats to the market at Puerto de Frutos. Mobile data works on the launch and at the stations, and is patchy on the smaller boats once they enter the narrower rivers.